After a day of travel from Cambodia and through Bangkok, we arrived at an oasis, but first we had to get by this monkey. Our bungalow on stilts, along with clusters of others, was set in a body of water surrounded by jungle. This monkey was helping himself to mangos near our place when our driver pulled up to drop off our suitcases. To get to our bungalow we had to pass the monkey and he wasn’t having any of it – hissing and charging at us. Three times our driver ran us back to the cart. Finally, the monkey looked like he was ready to depart with a piece of fruit so Rick followed him to the end of an elevated path all the while the monkey taking furtive looks behind him to make sure Rick wasn’t after his mango. Once at the end of the raised walkway, the monkey hopped down into the lagoon to wade across the lagoon, with the mango held high above his head, until he was safely back in the trees. It was all very comical, but each morning we’d peek out the door to check that it was safe to leave. Alas, we only saw him the once. (Krabi & surrounding, Feb 28-Mar 5)
Each dawn and dusk were filled with the sounds of nature waking up or settling in for the night. On our way to dinner one night, we heard a roaring sound (this video doesn’t come close to the loudness). We looked around trying to find a boat or chainsaw until it became apparent it was this tiny cicada sending out his mating signal. He went on for more than 5 minutes, vibrating special membranes in his abdomen. At close range the volume can be up to 120dB, similar to the volume of an aircraft taking off.
While the masses flock to famous Phuket for their beach time, fewer head to East and West Railay Beach, so we opted for a day trip there. Set on a finger of land there was an east beach on the one side connected by a 500m long path to the west beach. There was a Bohemian feel to the place with the narrow footpath taking you past a non-stop selection of casual places to shop, eat, drink, smoke weed, eat ‘happy mushrooms’ and just generally indulge. We didn’t realize that marijuana was legal in Thailand but since this beach day we’ve seen cannabis shops everywhere, but only once smelled it on the streets. Above: we hung out at this pub in comfy loungers with cold beers and people watched.
With the jungle about 40’ away, these monkeys didn’t have to come from very far to use a small shrine area as their personal daycare. There were so many babies and all they wanted to do was play. They didn’t seem interested in trying to get food from people, but they were curious. These 2 went from tumbling about near Rick to jumping and climbing on him. It all happened so fast and a guy nearby caught it on video which he later shared with us. To remove them, Rick just gently got up so they would bounce away.
When planning the trip, we read that 40 million tourists visited Thailand the year before Covid and 28 million in 2023 - and for many it’s a beach holiday. Today we became part of that number, and it wasn’t pretty. Above is how the day tour was billed with promises of snorkeling in aquamarine waters.
Our sole beach stop was sad. Because an attempt is being made to save the reef you were only allowed to go into the water up to your calves and a guy with a megaphone made sure you didn’t venture further. A continuous stream of tourists lined up to take their aquamarine backdropped selfie and then it was back to their boat to make room for the next batch. Further promised stops showed signs of overuse so that they ended up being opportunities for our boat to approach the shore for its passengers to take pics from the boat, pose on the boat, etc.
The sheer number of people and boats all vying for each location was comical (after we did an attitude adjustment LOL). We were told we were lucky as normally there can be a half hour wait for a boat to get a space at the pier. The snorkel ended up being one postage stamp sized area roped off while a ring of boats surrounded us revving their motors as each took turns for the best access for their passengers. A few lone fish managed to live in this circus. There is something to be said for a tourist lottery system or controls over access numbers, but these are just easy words when a country relies so heavily on tourism dollars.
When something wasn’t on the itinerary we ferried up and down the river. Given that traversing the city felt like we were walking in a sauna, being on the river brought a welcome breeze. The boats ran from the older style like above to double decker newer ones. It was a luck of the draw which you'd get.
We attended a performance of regional dances over the past 18 centuries, but we weren’t allowed to take pictures, so we used this grainy stock image. What intrigued us most was that the hands seemed pivotal to the dances with the almost double-jointed like shapes and movements they made with their very flexible wrists and fingers. In some dances the finger dexterity was exaggerated with long fingernail accessories used to extend their length.
With the wide and mighty Chao Phraya River bifurcating Bangkok and a multitude of small spinoff channels, the waters played an important role for centuries. And the king and his entourage were paddled along those waterways on the royal barges. Still today, for important events, the barges are used by royalty.
After the barges we headed to another little visited but intriguing site, the Medical Museum. Situated in the city’s main hospital across from the pathology department sat this part museum, part training ground for medical students. Preserved body parts subjected to every manner of injury, medical condition, or suicide shared space with fetuses or newborns where nature had gone wrong. By the time we got to the parasite section Rick had to go it alone. Given the nature of the subject matter, photography wasn’t allowed, but this 7' 10" female skeleton was acceptable. A couple of standout signs which were interesting given that they were in a hospital “herbalist-practice self-care and mindfulness contrary to western medicine“, and “once on pills, always on pills”.
A Chef’s Tour is offered in several countries around the world, but this was our first. We were stuffed after 3 hours of eating twenty different foods across a 120yr old food market, 3-generation small eateries and misc. stops. And all were connected by a local bus, complete with wood floor, and a bone rattling canal boat. My butt and jaw vibrated so much I opted to stand and watch the waterside scenes.
After our Chef's Tour through old Bangkok, we spent the next few hours in the city's largest and glitziest 7-story shopping mall. It was so over the top that even H&M’s clothing store had a huge recording booth filled with musical instruments and set up to record karaoke. South Korea was promoting tourism to its country, and they went big - for hours a collection of performers (boy bands, girl groups and gender fluid dancers) rocked a central stage while food stalls offered Korean specialties and booths were set up for each of the Asian airlines to sell flights.
This Thai sukiyaki restaurant catered to ethnic Chinese diners, and we were the only westerners. After a self serve selection of meats and vegetables it was time to cook. What we hadn’t factored in (on this 34C evening) was sitting in front of a burning charcoal filled ‘oven’ to cook our own meal. And when the oven got too cool, they’d replace it with another. It was fun, but we wouldn't sweat through another.
Each Buddha is an opportunity to leave an offering and sales of incense, flowers, messages, etc are never far away. If those won’t do, cash is always welcomed. The level of adoration and money spent is on a level we’ve not seen before. Above: worshippers buy god leaf to stick onto the elephant before praying to Buddha.
Certain events are believed to have happened with the Buddha. For each day of the week he is represented in a specific posture to associate it to an event. "The Saturday Buddha image is sitting in a full lotus position in meditation on the coiled body of the Naga Muchalinda [snake-like being] that uses its head as a cover against rain."
Beside our hotel was the Wat Rakhang, a pretty place to pass through on our way to the ferry pier to start each day. This pic is also a shameless plug for my new favourite travel garb. These wrap around flowy pants are so cooling, protect from the sun and feel dressy when the breeze captures them. I've been accumulating them at an embarrassing rate.
In the south of Bangkok the Chao Phraya River makes a sharp bend, leaving the body of land caught in it to be considered the island of Bang Krachao or the Green Lung of Bangkok for its healthy environment. Removed from the hustle, this place was bike-friendly and serene. The quiet main roads had clearly marked bike lanes. And raised cement paths intersected the main road to provide access to small homesteads and farms. Pedestrians, motorcycles and bicycles all shared the narrow passages.
Flowers were dropped off from the surrounding provinces to the flower market the previous night and this morning everyone was busy buying, selling and moving the goods. This cycle repeats daily. Above, bags of marigolds ready for making garlands. Sidenote: Although it looks like I'm trying to resurrect the headband days of the 80's, I've actually started wearing one to keep the sweat from stinging my eyes. Have I mentioned that Bangkok is hot and humid!!