This trip is all about cycling and the experiences, scenery, sites and food along the way. We are 5 weeks into it as I write this and what has struck us most is the vastness of our country and its supply of fresh water. And with so much of each, comes the birds. Biking, walking and camping, their calls make constant sweet companions. (B.C. to Newfoundland, May 7 to Sept ?, 2026)
This area produces a large supply of salt. Hot temperatures and steady winds in the summer evaporate the water and build up a brine concentration. The concentrated salt drops to the bottom of the reservoirs and when the brine is drained away the pure salt is collected. When the rains come the salt fields are flooded readying them for the cycle to repeat. (Morse, SK, May 10)
Tunnels were first built under Moose Jaw for crews to maintain the steam heating pipes that ran between the above ground buildings. Today the tunnels are used to recreate 3 times in Canadian history. The Al Capone tour recounted his bootleg business that used the train from Moose Jaw to Chicago. His crews did a roaring prohibition business transporting the 195-proof alcohol smuggled in bottles with maple syrup labels among other clever disguises. The 2nd tour was a retrospective of the early Chinese immigrant’s experience and lasting impact on our culture. (Moose Jaw, SK, May 12)
This morning, we had to drive for an hour to reach Winnipeg. The weather app warned of a risk of ‘damaging’ high winds and that high sided vehicles would be pushed around. Rick wrangled with the RV’s steering wheel as the wind buffeted us - it was a scary drive. Dust blew across the flat lands making the city look like it was in a fog. (Winnipeg, May 14-15)
Winnipeg it was the perfect spot to wait it out for a couple of days. We checked out The Forks and then spent hours at the Manitoba Museum for an excellent set of exhibits and an educational planetarium show. Above: Manitoba was largely under shallow ocean water 450 million years ago. Fossils tell us these creatures once thrived here.
On windy day 2, we spent the day at the zoo to learn about its unique polar bear research and relocation program in partnership with the town of Churchill, MB. If cubs are separated from their mother and deemed likely to survive, they are relocated in the wilds away from town. If not, some are relocated to the zoo to assess if they would adapt to the life. Once acclimatized, they are loaned to zoos that meet the program’s strict standards of care.
The river that feeds these falls passes through bogs, wetlands, and decomposing forest floors. The water washes the tannins out which gives the falls its tea-like colour. (Kakabeka Falls PP, ON, May 17)
Canada’s longest suspension bridge, the Eagle Canyon Suspension Bridge. (Dorion, ON, May 18)
The Group of Seven Touring Route is a 586-km long road trip in Northern Ontario that partly reminded us of the Sea to Sky highway. With Lake Superior always to the south, the rugged Canadian Shield inspired early 20th century artists to paint its landscape of rock faces, lake after lake, beaches, waterfalls, ghostly white poplar trees dotted amongst the coniferous and pink and grey granite rock roadside. Today their artworks are considered national treasures.
This Northern Cardinal wasn’t the least bit fussed by us nearby. They don’t have teeth, so they eat grit from the road to help their gizzards grind up and digest hard seeds. Its brilliant red looks photoshopped, but that’s au naturel.
The whole campground was in bloom with trilliums – we’ve never seen that many. With the flowers around our RV and listening to bird chatter, this was a particularly bucolic place to overnight. (Grundy Lake PP, ON, May 22)
There is an “immense amount” of pink granite in Ontario along the Great Lakes. It’s the rarest granite colour. Canada exports much of it to the US to use in part for building exterior panels and monuments. Days later on Parliament Hill several walkways were trimmed and building walls covered in the unique stone. (Hwy 17, ON, May 22)
Two days at Canada’s Wonderland was a blast. It was mostly about rides - lots of different coasters woven around each other. Loved the adrenaline thrills. (Vaughan, ON, May 25-26)
We struck this pose because it reminded us of Al Capone running his bootleg liquor.
Niagara Falls was impressive! The Canadian side has 90% of the falls, leaving only 10% on the U.S. side, so our views were spectacular. We spent the full day on our own schedule hopping on and off a transit bus from one vantage point or garden to another. (Niagara Falls, ON, May 27)
Just up the river from the falls, the Niagara Parks Power Station ran from 1905 to 2006. When Covid hit in 2020, Ontario saw the decaying infrastructure as an opportunity to revive tourism that had suffered such losses. A year later it was opened for the public after an extensive renovation to create an exceptional educational space. It’s now the world's only fully intact hydroelectric plant of its era. Equipment, dioramas, and panels walked you through the operation and then a glass elevator passed by subterranean equipment as it travelled each layer down 18 stories to hit bedrock. There, tunnels ran from one end to the other where a viewing platform sat the bottom of falls, lit up with different colours. And to top it off the evening ended with fireworks.
Niagara Falls is part of a 56km long park made up of gardens, manicured lawns, and forest along the Niagara River. Today we cycled a section of the Niagara River Recreation Trail that runs its length.
Walking 6km along the HamBur trail between Hamilton & Burlington was only a small part of the 50km loop. This was our first time ever seeing cygnets, hardly ugly ducklings with their soft grey down feathers. (Hamilton, ON, May 31)
Six days in Ottawa gave us time to cycle 6 different routes, all paved except for a couple of short connectors. The scenery & condition of the paths were a 5/5. Staying at the Wesley Clover Campground was ideal because we could ride directly from it and at days end our RV was nestled in a provincial park-like setting. It’s early for most campers, so there was hardly anyone around. Above: The Ottawa River Pathway to Parliament Hill. (Ottawa, ON, June 2-8)
Unfortunately, the parliament buildings were largely tarped for construction work, but it’s best side still featured nicely across the street.
Standing atop a narrow canal lock bridge, you can glimpse both the Rideau River East (bike) Pathway and on the other side, the Rideau River West (bike) Pathway. Built just under 200 years ago, the locks are the oldest continually operated in North American canals.
The Rideau River East (bike) Pathway just after leaving Parliament Hill. On my wish list is to return one day and skate this part of the canal when it freezes over - something easy to romanticize until the bitter cold sets in.
The featured artist at the National Gallery was a Canadian impressionist painter from a century ago, Helen McNicoll.
Montreal artist, Sylvia Safdie’s collection of earth, sand and crushed rock from around the world. So many rich colours and consistencies. There were some that reminded us of other places, like the fine red soil in P.E.I. and central Australia.
With the Fairmont Laurier as a pretty backdrop (& a later stop for a swooshy glass of wine), this picture is really about the hand cranks for the Rideau Canal in the foreground. It’s surprising that many of the locks are still opened and closed with these manual cranks 2 centuries on.
The Bank of Canada Museum displayed currency from around the world. Apart from all the coins and paper money, the unique one was a brick of tightly packed tea from China. Not only did it have value as a currency it could keep indefinitely.
Cycling from Ottawa into Gatineau, QC we had our first in-province crepes. They were even tastier than we expected because they were served differently – the cheese was melted inside the crepe, and the rest of the fillings were served atop in a light dressing.
The Upper Canada Village is the most extensive working museum we’ve ever seen. Functioning lumber, flour and woollen mills created products used within the village or sold outside. They all shared a body of water to run the waterwheels, pumps and belts that have been operating in each mill since the 1800’s. (Upper Canada Village, ON, June 8)
It was fascinating to watch the lumber mill in action. With the pumps working below the saw moved up and down along the white pine log. A full sheet took 20 min to cut. Then the cutter reset the measuring pins, sledge hammered the log into place and the cutting would start anew. With none of the moving parts behind safety enclosures the work looked as dangerous as it was back in the day.
The woollen mill first cleaned and dried the wool.
Then it was combed with a series of wire brush rolls (like a pet brush). Thick sections of combed wool was strung over pulleys and landed on the floor to create a loosely packed skein of wool. At this point it was transferred across the factory’s aisle to a long set of rollers that threaded the loose wool into finished yarn ready for knitting.
In the printing press building there were cabinets, each with several small drawers, each containing one of several font styles and sizes of each letter of the alphabet. Each tiny letter sat at the end of a metal pin (like a pinhead). After the printer set column guides on the metal plate in the center of the printer, he placed each letter pin to form words. It was painstaking work, taking 18hours to create one side of a page of newspaper.
The kids in school have some fun outings. We constantly see them in the places we visit. At the Upper Canada Village, they stay overnight and attend the old one-room school, wearing period costume.
Although campsites don’t often make it into this journal, the places we stay overnight often remind us why we love RVing. Birds have been a constant presence, both to see and hear. The Canada Geese are ubiquitous, but our favourite is the Mourning Dove, named for its soulful, owl-like coo. (Farran Park, Ingleside, ON, June 8)
Onto Quebec... it’s distinct culture, food, signage and overheard conversations in the romantic Francais Canadien language elevated each day from the familiar to old worlde. Towns along the roads and bike paths felt like ‘quaint villages’ rather than ‘small towns’. Petit homes and manicured gardens were often the norm. We’ll be sad to leave here but look forward to more cycling in the Laurentians and elsewhere when we turn around to return home.
Quebec has 100’s of kilometers of bike paths, paved or hard packed gravel. Many make up the seven Route Verte major cycling networks. Above: The Atria Loop (51km) along Route Verte 1 & 4, between Granby and Waterloo, QC. Below: Historic Knowlton was a Victorian era village and a good stop to poke around the shops and listen to live music at a pub. (June 11)
Our two favourite French words are fromagerie and patisserie. The cheese curds are so soft they are usually still ripening at room temperature in the fromageries.
Each day we cycled the linear park trail Parcour de las Anse (Route Verte 1) on the south side of the St Lawrence River and then took the ferry from Levis right into Old Quebec City. There were several adorable historical homes on the route. (Levis & Old Quebec City, QC, June 14-19)
The majestic Chateau Frontinac has dominated the skyline of Old Quebec City since the late 1800s.
The Dufferin Terrace is a 430m long boardwalk in front of the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac. Pictures from the 1800’s hung in the lower floor of the Fairmont showed crowds of the well dressed, women with their parasols, strolling the Terrace. There were so many landmark items in those pictures that you realized how much of Old Quebec City has been retained.
Under the Dufferin Terrace sits the kitchen, food storage and ice room ruins of what used to be the St Louis Fort - the residence of British and French governors as power changed from one country to another with each war. When fire destroyed the fort in 1834, the ruins of the communal latrine of all places, was a rich source of artifacts (jewellery, dinnerware, food waste, etc). Above: far away from the latrine was the kitchen’s ice pit. Each winter it was filled with huge blocks of ice from the nearby St Charles River and then topped with straw to insulate it. The cuts in the rock allowed melting ice to drain away.
So many postcard moments in Old Quebec City. We were smitten.
The Museum of Civilization moved outside the usual museum box with sections on identity, furniture, happiness and pleasure (including sexual pleasure) and a large display on crowd definitions and crowd control. Spheres holding 1 to 9 people illustrated what safe and dangerous space between people looked like. Crowd control experts monitor the amount of personal space people have. Fun fact: if you are ever in a crowd that feels too confining do not head to posts or the wall as you can more easily be crushed there. It is better to slowly move with the crowd and do not yell as yelling can cause panic and trampling.
A mix of truck, sled and tank treads were combined for use by doctors and others called to winter duty. It was used up until 1964.
The Plains of Abraham Museum and grounds documented one of the Seven Years Wars between the French and British as they vied for control of Quebec City (and ultimately Canada). The artwork above shows a scene from the mere 15 min Battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759 where the French surrendered the city on a freezing cold night.
In stark contrast to Quebec’s paved, smooth bike paths this province has the “absolute worst roads in Canada according to comprehensive data from the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA).” So often we’re wincing as our poor RV shakes, rattles and rolls through a series of potholes.
A set of scenic villages in Quebec are known as The Most Beautiful Villages of Quebec. Today was spent driving along a country road from one cute town to the next, with Kamouraska being one of them (pic). We passed miles of grain fields with bright green new growth, one family farm after another, Fromageries (oh we’ll miss the cheese..) and postcard pretty homes immaculately kept with often a lilac bush in bloom out front. (Quebec City to Rivière-du-Loup, QC, June 19)
Wildflowers are a highlight for many of the rides. I just never tire of them and as the weeks pass so do the flowers shapes and colours. Above and below, the New Brunswick Trail. (Perth-Andover, NB, June 20-21)
There were only a few drizzly days, but it was still fun to be riding.
This small town is home to the longest covered bridge (continuously used) in the world. (Hartland, NB, June 22)
It was so long that walking towards Cheryl and Greg at the opposite end was like seeing just a glimmer of light, then specks slowly morph into people. Surprisingly the cars at each end didn’t have a light to tell them there wasn’t any oncoming traffic – they just had to check if there were ‘lights at the end of the tunnel’.
Nearby the bridge, the Covered Bridge Potato Chips headquarters offered visitors the option of buying warm bags of chips to taste test from a host of flavours, from the sweet s’mores to the savory like siracha lime. After all the sampling, we all just stocked up on the tried-and-true traditional flavours.
Cycling the loop along the Saint John River in New Brunswick’s capital. Of course it ended at a pub □. (Fredericton, NB, June 22)
The geography of Magnetic Hill made you feel like you were travelling uphill backwards when physics should have you driving uphill forward. At a starting point an attendant instructed us to drive to “the bottom of the hill to a white post, then put the RV in neutral”. In neutral we started to feel like we were moving uphill backwards – very trippy! (Moncton, NB, June 23)
The highlight of the Marshes Rail Trail was weaving along boardwalks through the Sackville Waterfowl Park. The UN recognized this town as the first-ever internationally accredited Wetland City in North America. (Sackville, NB, June 24)
Sitting in the RV with morning coffee… a sliver of P.E.I. in the distance, waves from the Northumberland Strait hitting the beach and our fire pit 50’ away. We feel like the many homeowners in eastern Canada with their massive expanses of lawn and ride-em lawnmowers. (Murray Beach, Prov Campground, Little Shemogue, NB)
Down the road the lupins put on quite a show. They’ve been a frequent pop of colour along the sides of the roads and bike paths. I’ve become obsessive… lupin fridge magnets (a guilty pleasure), a tea towel and countless stops for pictures.
I know, 2 lupin pics in a row – I got excited every time we’d see a field of colour. We loved the beauty and otherness of Prince Edward Island; lupins in bloom, cycling, Anne of Green Gables, fields of vibrant green crops, patiently following potato trucks, the pace, the neatness of the homes and yards, camping oceanside smelling the salt air and falling asleep to the sound of waves and driving through seaside and inland villages.
When the 13km long Confederation Bridge - connecting NB to PEI - first replaced the ferry in 1997, many weren’t comfortable driving across. So, for the first 20 years nervous drivers would move to the passenger seat while a bridge employee drove their vehicle across the bridge (for free!). One of the engineering challenges was constructing it so that it could withstand ice-flows crashing into the support piers, hence the splayed bottom of each. The crossing holds the title of the world's longest bridge built over ice-covered water. (PEI, June 25)
Fisherman’s Wharf in Charlottetown, with its pretty setting and cute shops, was a perfect start to our 3 weeks in PEI.
First stop, lobster!
Despite the bibs and “how-to” instructions for cracking the lobster I still managed to splatter myself.
The humble spud has been a constant reminder on the island. When we arrived many of the fields were rolling hills of rich red soil plowed into picturesque V shaped rows. The ridges ensure that when the potatoes are planted, they have a mound of soil to grow in. Potatoes are the island’s #1 source of income.
Known for its iron rich farmland, care is taken to maintain its sustainability. Every 3-4 years potatoes are grown on a tract of land and then the other years cover crops (cereal grasses and legumes) are planted to protect the soil against wind and rain erosion and add back important nutrients that enrich the soil and protect against pests. A mix of potatoes and cover crops are often on rolling hills and bordered by trees, so they appear as patterns on a quilt.
Two weeks later in a warmer part of the island the potato blossoms were showy, just in time for the Potato Blossom Festival (unfortunately it conflicted with the Lobster Festival).
At one campground 2 young kids were hauling their wagon around selling new potatoes “just picked and washed this morning.. we're saving for Disneyland”. Who could resist - the 4 of us stocked up. Hours later we ate the freshest, creamiest spuds!
At the potato museum in O’Leary the café’s baked potatoes were creamy and Rick Mercer videos chronicling everything from the planting to making potato chips were hilarious.
The starting point of our riding days along the Confederation Trail. We got a group shot at each end of the trail that runs from tip to tip of the island, except we rode it in reverse. The smooth, fine gravel was very well maintained which exceeded our expectations. (Elmira, PEI, June 27)
The Singing Sands beach and pier. Unlike most beaches where sand is made up of soft ground shells, this one is quartz and silica. When you shuffle your feet through the dry silky sand you hear squeaking from the friction of the grains grinding together. (Basin Head, PEI, June 28)
Lifeguard chairs dot the Singing Sands Beach and pier. When the tides change a large volume of water is forced back and forth between the narrow channel through to the Northumberland Strait. This makes it especially dangerous for swimmers. In the busy summer months, there can be 10-15 rescues each day!
This lobster shack in the coastal town of Souris was our favourite. Unlike fishers elsewhere PEI has managed to provide fishers with a livelihood that goes back to 1925 when a group of Tignish fishermen banded together and with the help of a lawyer formed a union that ensured they could make a living off of lobster, which at the time was considered a poor man’s food or used for fertilizer. (Souris, PEI, June 29)
We included the menu to remind us of the affordable price of lobster during this trip. Japan is a large export market, and they pay up to $200/lb.
Today’s bike ride that ran between Selkirk and St Peter’s was especially scenic. (St Peter’s Bay, PEI, June 29)
Mussel and oyster farms are prolific. Blue mussels are rope cultured, in slim sock-like nets that dangle below a water level frame. The island has become a large supplier of full-grown mussels and baby ‘seeds’ for sale to other producers.
Much has been learned about sand dune protection since we were here 10 years ago. Now plants currently in place and those planted to protect erosion and the habitat, cover much of the sand that used to be visible. (Greenwich Dunes, PEI, June 30)
The visitors to the home and forest that inspired the Anne of Green Gables series covered the gamut of ages and countries. One of the 36 languages the novels were translated into was Japanese. It was published there secretly and was especially meaningful to post WWII orphans. Ever since 1952 her work has been a mandatory part of Japan’s school curriculum. When we visited a family of Japanese people were just giddy, having their pictures taken with all things Anne. Above: the green gables home (L.M. Montgomery’s cousins house) that inspired the novel series (8 books in all). (Cavendish & North Rustico, PEI, June 30 - July 6)
The Green Gables home is now part of a national park. These musicians entertained with songs from the old countries of the early settlers, along with ship wrecks and the funny “Bud the Spud” by Stompin’ Tom Connors.
Over 100 years after the first Anne of Green Gables novel, the braided redhead continues to sell. Above: one of the shops in Avonlea Village (those in the know will remember that Anne’s town was Avonlea).
In a final Anne moment… I had to mail a declaration to Telus to confirm that I was still alive and should continue receiving my pension. It so happened that the post office nearby was a historical home donated to the city. It was likely a nod to the fact that the author of Anne of Green Gables used to help her aunt work in a post office. L.M. Montgomery kept her literary aspirations to herself, so working with the post was perfect to secretly mail her poems and stories to publishers hoping to see some of them in print. I was giddy mailing my pension paperwork from here, a stop along the beginning of our retirement journeys a decade ago.
This town put on a full day Canada Day celebration – parade, live music, dancing in the grass, a lobster boat parade and fireworks. The four of us waiting in line for the parade to start. Of course, trucks and tractors figured prominently. (North Rustico, PEI, July 1)
Of course farm equipment was in the parade.
Ten years ago the lobster boat parade was an organized and enthusiastic showing. This year things were more scattered and kind of fizzled out □
Riding the 10km Homestead Trail Loop at the Cavendish NP Campground followed by a 25km return ride to North Rustico via the gulf Shore Parkway, West. Ocean breezes kept us cooler in the heat and humidity. And water views were rarely out of sight. (July 3)
The Gulf Shore Parkway East was highlighted as a particularly scenic path, with beaches, the Covehead Harbour Lighthouse and The Dunes Studio Gallery & Café in the town of Dalvay by the Sea. Most of the island’s beaches were red from iron rich sandstone that has oxidized and reduced to sand under the pounding surf. (July 4)
Recommended by a friend, the Dunes Café served up divine desserts amid gardens and a next-level gallery.
Riding home from North Rustico with a cooler full of lobster. Ahhh we’ll remember these days when we choke at the price of it on menus back home.
Cheryl and I read all the Anne books as kids, and we always wanted her to marry Gilbert. Watching the Anne and Gilbert play was a walk down memory lane (… surprise, they marry). (Charlottetown, PEI, July 5)
Rick planned much of this trip, and by sometimes getting up at 4am he reserved the best sites. I started calling them Rick’s Pics. Large, private and overlooking the Atlantic, this provincial park campground made for entertaining bird watching. Last night, a cormorant struggled to swallow a large catch and this morning a flock of terns swooped and dove for their breakfast. And this afternoon, a rainbow. (Alberton & Tignish, PEI, July 7-10)
Tignish, at the northern tip of the island, marks the start/end point of the Confederation Trail. The four of us travelled together between the last week in Quebec to the end of PEI and as Anne of Green Gables would say, we were ‘kindred spirits’.
Tignish also has the largest fish and seafood plant. Lobster in a nearby park as our mid-ride lunch sure beat the cheese and crackers staple. I just realized I was so eager to eat it I hadn’t even taken my helmet off :)
The property surrounding the Green Park Campground included a shipbuilding museum and home of the wealthiest man (a shipbuilder) in PEI in the mid-1800’s. What struck us at the Shipbuilding Museum was how many of the 4,000 ships built in PEI, most in the 1800’s, were lost at sea on their way over to England to sell PEI lumber. (Tyne Valley & O’Leary, PEI, July 11-13)
The coffin in the room represented its former use as a death room where recently dead were laid for a wake and funeral. When the practice fell out of favour, its room name was changed to the Living Room to make a clean break.
Riding around the Tyne Valley we passed a rare field of canola, the most stunning of all crops. The cover plant adds pest resistant properties to the soil for the next potato crop. It was interesting reading about the convoluted process it takes to extract canola oil from the plant’s seeds.
Rick brought out the drone to fly over the field and bike trail. While riding we could smell clover and moments later we came across this field which was in the process of being harvested.
Clover is added in with barley or oats because it naturally enriches the soil with nitrogen that potato crops consume. Being such a crop reliant province, conservation groups distribute native wildflower seed mixes to farmers to ensure that bee's needs are supported year-round.
The humble fern was a standout along the trail (an abandoned railway line). Either they were super-sized or mint green like these. The microclimate and conditions along the long undisturbed sides of the trail allowed the rhizome-spreading plants to thrive.
The many picnic tables along the bike path looked tempting, but in the forest the mosquitos made lunches quick.
At the north tip of the island sat the Wind Energy Institute of Canada. With a 300-degree exposure to the ocean’s wind it was ideally situated to study and test wind technologies and generate energy for the island. The institute collaborates with private, educational and government sectors worldwide. (North Cape, PEI, July 10)
On today’s short ride we passed a classic island tableau; a home clad in eastern white cedar shingles to withstand harsh coastal winds, salt spray and extreme maritime weather, a potato field not far away and a pristinely maintained white church down the quiet country road. (Tyne Valley, PEI, July 13)
The annual Summerside Lobster Festival was a 4 day event with cooking demos, live music, a midday with rides that have seen a lot of salt air, harness racing and rustic lobster suppers with lively Acadian music on the weekend. Fun fact: 47M lbs of lobster are harvested annually. (Summerside, PEI, July 15)
For 150 years the raceway has been hosting harness racing. Miniature ponies started the day. With kids at the reins we watched the likes of Cookie Monster, Gussy, Mayonnaise & Girl Power trot their hearts out to make it across the finish rider.
Next up, the big purse riders. Initially, I placed my bet based on fun names but when the rider of my first horse (Poorpoorpitifulme) lost control and we all watched the two careening around the grass inside the track before the race started, it was a forgone conclusion they’d come in last :). After that I got serious and Rick and I ended up breaking even.
The lobster supper came with Celtic entertainment - lots of foot stomping and energetic fiddle playing. It was a nostalgic evening with the same 2 musicians we watched at our 2017 Lobster Carnival.