In March of 2020 the COVID-19 virus travelled from a wet market in China to North America and set off the first global pandemic we had ever experienced.  Within weeks the enormity of this disrupter started to sink in.  ICUs began filling, front line health and essential workers became heroes and for a while engendered a 7pm ritual of banging pots and pans to honour their efforts.  For over a year we couldn’t gather in our family’s living rooms let alone travel outside our community or afar.  Seniors in assisted living went months unable to see their loved ones as the virus ravaged one home after another killing many of the aged.  Cities and countries oscillated between lockdowns, easing restrictions, another ‘wave’ and the cycle repeating itself. 

As the global economy shape shifted, many lost their jobs and others started to work from home.  Masks were mandatory to enter any shared spaces.  Plexiglass separated diners and workers from each other.  Goods and services became either difficult to acquire or exponentially more expensive with long delivery timelines.  Online ordering replaced retail shopping and QR codes replaced menus and it’s unknown how much will remain the ‘new normal’.  And finally, terms like ‘anti-vaxxers’ and ‘social-distance’ were added to our lexicon.

Within 12 months the first vaccines were approved for use and distributed in order of age (and most vulnerable) all the way down to 12-year-olds.  The record time was a testament to the urgency and collaboration of the world’s scientists.  For Rick and I, our initial vaccine was received on April 1, 2021 with the second 12 weeks later.  In September of 2021, 18 months after the start, many in Canada were issued a ‘vaccine passport’ that allowed them to enter restaurants, cinemas and other gathering places.  This effectively shut out the ‘anti-vaxxers’ from engaging in a social society.  People’s positions on whether to get vaccinated or wear a mask took their toll on relationships and government policies.
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During all of this, we found the winter of 2020 long and at times emotionally challenging, but the summers were lovely, and we explored Beautiful British Columbia like never before.  For the latter, we thanked COVID.  Not wanting to relive the winter of ’20 we headed south for ’21-’22 and had an amazing socially-distanced 4-month trip.  Our adventures follow…

Sayward Forest Canoe Circuit,  Aug 6 - 12, 2020

Our first foray into tenting in close to a decade was more challenging than we were prepared for, but the sense of accomplishment and sheer satisfaction of paddling, sleeping in a tent, camp cooking and serene scenery more than made up for the sore muscles. Setting out in a storm from Strathcona lodge we kayaked a series of lakes interconnected by portages suited for canoes but not kayaks.

Many put-ins required Rick to wade in deep mud so that the kayak floated enough to saddle the portage wheels. I stood on the sidelines afraid of leeches.

The portages were so numerous that we soon nicknamed the circuit the Sayward Forest Portage Circuit. Our kayak was the only one we saw. Its 25’ length required several 3 point turns, foot-by foot adjustments to get over roots and rocks and a lot of pulling and pushing.

Rick hauled while I brought up the rear trying to control the stern while it swung me off into the bushes on the merest of turns.

Swampland and boggy areas added to the challenge.

But, at the end of the day there were our senior’s little helpers… pure gold.

The payoff was lovely paddling through small lakes and streams.

Wearing our cheap rain ponchos and gently paddling through this lily pad obstacle course, everything felt peaceful.

A very different view when the sun is shining.

Still paddling at 7pm this day, weariness had set in, and the next available campsite was still a distance to go. Fortunately another set of paddlers saw us and pointed to an island. With rustic seats set up to enjoy both the sunrise and sunset and a toilet with a view, it was a highlight campsite.

Lining the kayak offered a refreshing coolness with little effort.

Of course, every night Rick wiped down the kayak – we returned it cleaner than when we picked it up.

Relaxing in the evening… Rick’s bandages were a common accessory. Another lesson learned – rely less on water shoes for around the camp.

Privacy is overrated. This toilet was set up beside the walking path and had a gorgeous view of the lake if you wanted to stick around long enough to enjoy it.

All the space needed to make a simple camp meal. Since this was our first multi-night camping trip in over a decade a few lessons were learned about what to bring for food and how to make meals interesting. But oatmeal filled with nuts and dried blueberries have been a constant must have.

Lots of huckleberries added to the food options.

A staff member at the canoe rental place told us we travelled light, yet it felt like we had taken so much. But when we ran into a family that had packed coolers full of fresh food and alcohol, the observation made more sense.

The bittersweet last night. There were meteorites so we pulled our mattress and sleeping bags partly out of the tent and just laid there watching the shooting stars.

The final portage before a 22km last paddle to the Strathcona Lodge. We were both as beat as I look but felt exhilarated by the trip at the same time. We have so many fond memories, but know we would not be up to doing it again.

BC and AB Roadtrip,  Sept 1 - 30, 2020

We headed out on Rick's birthday. Despite being crammed to the gills, we were able to hang his birthday banner. (Kekuli PP, Sept 1/20)

The new Okanagan Rail Trail edged Kalamalka Lake. With a coffee shop at the north end and the Kekuli Bay PP in the center and on the trail, it’s a winner. Rick and Sherri were oblivious to Don and me behind. (Vernon area, Sept 2/20)

Four days canoeing the Azure and Clearwater Lakes was leisurely compared to the Sayward kayak trip. Each day averaged about 12km paddling, there wasn’t any portaging, the water was calm, and the sun was shining. (Clearwater, Sept 6-9/20)

Those rare moments when the water is like glass and the shoreline reflects in the water so that it’s hard to tell where the land ends and the water begins.

The best campsite of the lot but only one lucky camper can get it. At the south end of Azure Lake just before the channel the land juts into the water and supports this single site. Rick did a midnight run to the outhouse and startled a porcupine. The animal's spines went up and Rick gave it some room.

Crossword puzzle time.

The unseasonably warm late summer weather and sandy campsites gave the trip a tropical feel.

An evening fire and a morning fog… camping ambiance.

Paddling through the moving water that connected the 2 lakes was a bit of a thrill and the turquoise water was gorgeous.

Pulling the air mattress & sleeping bags a little outside the tent to watch the stars and listen to the water lap the shore...

The bear cache kept the bears out but not the mice. We still had one package of M&M's - a snack staple. Luckily it was on our last morning of the canoe trip. Next up, Jasper National Park.

It was the caribou’s mating season and campers were warned to not get close to the aggressive rutting bulls. Their calls could be heard throughout the campground, especially in the morning. (Jasper National Park, Sept 14/20)

The mineral-rich aqua of the Athabasca River is a magnet for the camera and moments of pause. (Jasper, Sept 14/20)

With the icefield receding at a startling pace, shooting from this angle paints a more positive memory. (Icefields Parkway & Columbia Icefield, Sept 16/20)

From the the alpine blooms along the forest path to its wind-swept ruggedness, the Parker Ridge hike was stunning. (Banff, Sept 16/20)

As we hiked beside the Bow River these paddlers came into view. The scene struck us as all very Canadiana. (Banff, Sept 18/20)

As we headed up to Takakaw Falls, a sign told us how to navigate the tight turns. Below I’m guiding Rick as he backed up the hill. (Yoho National Park, Sept 20/20)

While many in the world were in lockdown, we felt grateful that we lived so close to Alberta’s national parks and Beautiful BC. Exceptional hikes and bike rides, stunning views, hideaway rec sites, wildlife sightings and the freedom to explore were a balm for the challenges of Covid.

The Columbia & Western Rail Trail runs from Grand Forks to Christina Lake and all of it away from the highway. It's not too shady, so definitely not a hot day ride. (Grand Forks, Sept 27/20)

Powell River Canoe Circuit,  July 18 - 23, 2021

Armed with a little more paddling & packing knowledge and a few new supplies we were ready to sleep in a tent again. A canoe rental and shuttle business got us to the start of the Powell River Canoe Circuit. (July 18-23/21)

Although it was only an 8.5km paddle to the far end of Lois Lake there were a lot of dead heads, so I had to always be alert. At the far end of the lake was the first portage. Wheel friendly, it was a breeze compared to the Sayward Forest Canoe Circuit.

A paddle through Horseshoe to the middle of Nanton Lake with a tailwind or broadside meant more eagle eyes watching for deadheads. It can be tiring for both of us which makes the relaxation of camp all the sweeter.

A rare picture together in nature’s frame.

After a night at an informal campsite we woke early and checked out the Nanton to Ireland portage (4.5km). We decided that although it wasn’t impossible, it made a better walk than a portage.

To once again beat the 10am winds, we woke early and paddled across the lake to have breakfast and enjoy the view at the alternate Horseshoe-Dodd portage trailhead. With our fast friends Christa and Ruth we walked the portage and once again agreed that it was a better walk than portage □. Playing cards back at camp seemed a far better idea than carrying our canoes to another site.

No matter the trip, breakfast was always oats, blueberries, walnuts and a healthy dose of full fat powdered milk with hot water. We never knew that powdered milk could actually taste good – it smelled like butter.

Before campers were up, I crept around the island trying to capture the mist on the water when I found this tent in the perfect light. Quietly paddling through it a while later made an early start worth it.

This was the perfect campsite until a group of teenagers sucked the serenity out of it. The water was clear for swimming and the deck a welcome flat spot to soak up the warmth.

More time spent creating a sandy flat spot for our tent. This place felt tropical, and no one was around. When I woke for a midnight pee a Buck moon was just rising above the tree line within an eerie thin cloud – spectacular!

There’s always room for Rick’s electric shaver to be packed□. Day 6 and it was time to paddle back to the start of Lois Lake and go see the Sowden’s new home in Powell River.

Clearwater & Azure Lakes,  Aug 9 - 12, 2021

​Since we’d had such gorgeous weather and paddling in September last year, we thought it would be even better this year if we went in August to Clearwater and Azure Lakes. While packing our gear into the rented canoe our host informed us that afternoon winds were common in August, so we had to finish each day’s paddle early.  So instead of leisurely mornings in camp, we hustled early and paddled fast to make it before the winds came up.  (Clearwater & Azure Lakes, Aug 9-12/21)

The shuttle to the top of the lakes saves a few days and a portage.

Because we wanted to tent on the beach and not in the preset sites, Rick would meticulously flatten a section of sand for the tent.

And he set us up with some lovely spots. We were so close to the water we could hear it lap against the shore while falling asleep.

While fires raged throughout much of BC and warnings of poor air quality were regularly being reported, this fire across the lake was the only evidence we saw. We felt grateful to have happened to be away when the lower mainland was suffering so badly.

One day the winds were especially bad, the water choppy and the canoe’s bow was taking in water. The shoreline was mostly cliff-like until we finally spotted a small space to pull our canoe in. A couple of hours later some kayakers joined us.

We ended up waiting out the weather for hours, eventually moving much of our camping supplies ashore as we made meal after meal. It had been a long day by the time we paddled to a campsite.

The End...

Interior Road Trip,  Sept 9 - 30, 2021

With still no end in sight for Covid and knowing we were on the cusp of another long winter at home, on a spontaneous whim we headed into the Interior for a few weeks. (Sept 9-30, 2021)

While Rick spent time learning how to use his drone, I made a big batch of roasted tomato basil soup with a farmers market bounty. There wasn’t a soul around except the cows that ambled into the camp. (Jolly Creek Rec Site, Sept 10/21)

Kokanee salmon (aka sockeye) work their way up to their spawning site using this manmade stream that ran adjacent to the one the fish used to use before it was destroyed by human activity. This particular salmon turns red during it's spawning phase. (Kokanee Creek PP, Sept 11/21)

The Northstar Rail Trail is one of the few in BC that is paved from end to end. Between Kimberly and Cranbrook it runs 25km for a good 50km return ride that passes fields of tall grasses and the rich scent of ponderosa pines. It’s a favourite! (Kimberly, Sept 13/21)

The River Walk ran both sides of the river connected by covered bridges. It was dotted with these whimsical characters hidden just off the trail. (Kaslo, Sept 16/21)

A beautifully refurbished sternwheeler – the oldest intact one in the world – showcased how lavishly travel along the Kootenay River was for those that could afford it a century ago. The SS Moyie took her last trip in 1957. (Kaslo, Sept 16/21)

The Slocan Valley Rail Trail is another worthwhile ride. Between Slocan and Crescent Valley it runs 50km one-way. Setting ourselves up at the mid-point at Karibou Park Campground in Winlaw was perfect because it was right on the trail.

Along the route the Fall colours were out, always a bittersweet time. Summer is ending and those perfect, crisp Fall days don't seem to last long enough.

The municipal campground turned into an action packed place. Rick rescued a girl who was drowning in the river and after the ambulance arrived a bear was hovering around our RV which attracted a wildlife officer. Grand Forks, Sept 27/21)

Goodbye Interior, it’s been a good run. (Oliver, Oct 3/21)

SW USA,  Nov 8, 2021 to March 8, 2022

The border with the US opened on November 8, 2021 and we crossed the following day for some snowbird sunshine. The virus had so gripped the collective consciousness that we were the only vehicle in the Nexus line and one car crossed the regular line. At Costco in Bellingham a trio of employees were asking themselves where all the Canadians were and decided "it was probably because the US was such a shit-show with all the anti-vaxxers and anti-maskers." (California, Arizona & Texas, Nov 9/21 to Mar 8/22)

Ghost towns abound in the south, with a few resurrected to become tourist draws. This one was purchased by the Knotts family of Knotts Berry Farm, so it was well done, balancing the education of an 1880s silver mine operation with consumerism of today. (Calico, CA, Nov 13/21)

After days of relatively cool traveling we arrived in the warmth of Death Valley to hike and marvel at the landscape. Unlike the rocks making up the other hikes, this Mosaic Canyon was riddled with layers of smooth marble. (Death Valley, CA, Nov 14-18/21)

The further afield from the parking lot, the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes became steeper and the footsteps fewer. Eventually ours were the only footsteps on the narrow ridge line.

The 25’ length of our RV was the upper limit of what the Artists Palette loop could accommodate before vehicles would bottom out in the road dips.

When this track became a goat trail with a steep drop-off I couldn’t go on any further (& nor could the hiker behind us). (Golden Canyon)

A side trail on the Golden Canyon hike went to the ‘red cathedral’, an aptly named formation who’s red colour – from oxidized iron ore – complimented the nearby mudstone.

Told that sunrise was the best time to see Zabriskie’s Point, we took up the challenge. With hot cups of coffee in hand and the tripod in place we were treated to the slow reveal of the peak’s soft chamois colours.

Leaving Death Valley was as scenic as the hikes within it. We couldn’t resist jumping out of the RV to scramble up a few hills to take a last look at the stunning display at 20 Mule Team Canyon.

When London replaced it’s 1830 bridge over a century later, a Lake Havasu resident bought and relocated it to this planned community. (Lake Havasu, AZ, Nov 19/21)

A prior visit to this park in 2016 was memorable enough to make a second trip worthwhile. The Jumbo Rocks Campground within the park is the best – private spots, sunrises and sunsets lighting up the rocks and it’s close to the hikes. (Joshua Tree NP, CA, Nov 20/21)

The Guiness World Records called Yuma the “Sunniest City on Earth” with sunshine at least 91% of the year. The East Main Canal Path and its West Wetlands Park spur made for quiet and safe biking. Other than the bonus of some cycling we found Yuma somewhat gritty with the nearby dunes being a draw for ATVs. (Yuma, AZ, Nov 23/21)

Two highlights from today: there was a coffee shop with an outdoor patio (a rarity in the rural south) and we found this completely private and scenic BLM site just south of Ajo where Rick could spend time with his drone. (Darby Wells Rd BLM, AZ, Nov 24/21)

‘The Wall’ snaked through the middle of town separating the US from the Mexican side. Some sections were heavily barb wired an addition courtesy of Trump. We’ve driven hundreds of miles near the border and through border towns and most often the barrier is subtle, based on mountains and the Rio Grande. But this was jarring – through the wall you could see the bustle of Mexican life with cars driving and people walking what felt like inches from the wall. (Nogales, AZ, Nov 26/21)

Up until the last 3 decades, residents from both sides easily moved between the north and south sides of town to shop, work and socialize. But since the 1990’s a military presence has increased, and the wall got bigger. Today, men like these must talk through the wall.

A highlight of each travel day will be where we settle down for the night and Arizona had a fair share of BLM land open to anyone to find their sweet spot. This one was exceptionally scenic and solitary, devoid of noise or light pollution. (South of Tucson - Cieneguita Campground-BLM, Nov 27/21)

At least with the drone we can get a rare photo together.

The Brown Mountain hike from this campsite to the Sonoroa Desert Museum ticked all the boxes with a wide variety of cactus, 360-degree views and long enough to feel like we’d earned the cold beers back at our ‘Roadhouse’. (Gilbert Ray Campsite, Tucson, AZ, Nov 29/21)

When the sunlight catches this type of cholla, it’s solid mass of spines glow giving it a soft appearance. No wonder it’s nicknamed the teddy bear.

Tucson boasts 130km of paved bike paths and most run adjacent to canals, making them both safely away from roads and often scenic. The bonus with the Canada del Ore Wash trail is that it started from our campsite in Catalina State Park. Barrel cactus with its pineapple like fruit. They taste light and lemony and recipes include barrel cactus mango salsa. (Tucson, AZ, Dec 1/21)

Too many years of watching the Road Runner cartoon had prepared us for a 3’ tall bird, rather than this diminutive creature. But true to the cartoon, they do run fast – into the 30+ km/hr.

Saguaro’s catching the late afternoon light along the 7 Falls Trail. Their roots are only 3-5” deep but because they stretch out about 4’ it allows them to grow in inhospitable places like this rock face. Growing at about 1 foot every 10 years, these ones would be about 120 years old. (Sabino Canyon, Tucson, AZ, Dec 1/21)

Known as an epicenter for skydiving in the US, small town Eloy was all about jumpers. A steady flow of shuttles took batches of skydivers to the planes that flew up one after the other to release the various colorful parachutes. After spending hours watching the ‘show’, it was interesting to see how graceful most of the women landed while many of the men opted for a more testosterone fueled hard and fast approach. (Eloy, AZ, Dec 5/21)

A chance to get out and stretch our legs ended up being a spot to pull out the camera. Both shots did well in one of the photo club’s themes. Rick kept watch for the traffic while I positioned myself at exactly the middle of the bridge. (Arlington, AZ, Dec 6/21)

It took a flat (& ruined) tire to get here, but with the closest neighbour so far away the Saddle Mtn BLM epitomized solitude. (Tonopah, AZ, Dec 6/21)

The aptly named Cactus wrens are Arizona’s state bird. During an evening walk through the Rowland County Campground (a fave) they were busy chattering to one another while perched atop all variety of cactus spines. Because they’re so light and they spread their toes across the largest surface they can, they’re able to pull off this impressive feat without impaling themselves. (Phoenix & area, AZ, Dec 7-15/21)

As much as I loved Tucson’s serene fountain-filled botanical garden, Phoenix’s more upscale Desert Botanical Garden was worth a couple of visits. Scattered throughout the grounds, Dale Chihuly glassworks added another dimension to the gardens. (Phoenix, AZ, Desert Botanical Gardens, Dec 9/21)

True to their name, old man cactus can live to about 200 years.

And the same glass work at night…A couple of days later we returned for an evening Christmas outing, perfect for Covid since it was all outdoors. The gardens were graced with 8,000 candle lit lanterns, lighted cactus and 7 sets of performers scattered throughout the gardens (incl the Mariachi band below). It was such a treat to be a part of something Christmassy.

The canal-side bike paths in Tucson and Phoenix were memorable. I can’t say enough about them. They would be reason enough to do return visits. This one started from Tempe Town Lake and ran north through a series of parks.

The fountain for which Fountain Hills was named and built around. This adorable town was only incorporated in the lates 1980’s which gave it a postcard-perfect designed community appearance. (Fountain Hills, greater Phoenix, Dec 10/21)

The Flatiron was a beast to climb. The 16km with a 1,000m gain wasn’t the true challenge, it was the rock climbing and slickrock that took it into ‘difficult’ territory. (Apache Junction, Dec 15/21)

Rick starts to navigate the slickrock of ‘the bowl’.

As we raced against winter’s early sunset to finish the hike, the sun lit up the ochre in the rocks.

Like the Flatiron took its toll on our bodies, Arizona’s roads took their toll on the RV. This quick snap of Rick screwing our microwave back into place was just one piece of collateral damage (along with a flat {and destroyed tire}, a broken cupboard door, a dislodged stove element and a hubcap that rolled into the roadside abyss).

Expecting a wide and rushing river, instead the Rio Grande was most often a narrow slow-moving stream. In addition to acting as the border between the US and Mexico, the river is also an important source of water for the two countries and as the drought continues in the southwest, it is being stressed.

The Hot Spring Trail ended at the shores of the Rio Grande where a selection of crafts was laid out for sale along with an honour box for purchases. Across the river, two Mexican men worked at their crafts. We picked up a braided copper mesquite tree decorated with beads to act as our desert version of a Christmas tree. (Big Bend National Park, TX, Dec 21/21)

With our homemade decorations and paired down Christmas Eve indulgences we prepared to join a Zoom with the family. As usual, our connection was frustratingly poor, but it still felt festive to hear and see everyone. (Del Rio, TX, Dec 24/21)

When I was young my dad would sing Marty Robbin’s ‘Streets of Laredo’ so when the town was part of our route, I was excited. I really wanted to love it, but we were uneasy about where to park the RV safely to start a bike ride and parts of the ride went through neighbourhoods I wasn’t comfortable in. Finally it terminated just before the Mexican border. (Laredo, TX, Dec 26/21)

Latino families visited this cemetery to brightly decorate the gravestones of their deceased relatives and to reminisce and say prayers.

After several state parks warned about aggressive javelinas and the importance of keeping our camp clean, we finally saw one snuffling his way through a site. (Falcon State Park, TX, Dec 27)

Later during a bush walk we saw more javelinas, so I started carrying sticks in case I needed to rescue Rick who would be trying to protect me. Rest assured, we didn’t have to use them.

Reminders of how the drought has affected the southern US were common. To think that once the water level was high enough to launch your boat here. It was so low we couldn’t see where the water started.

Each night, after a full day of exploring, we sat peacefully watching the pelicans (and sometimes dolphins) put on a show right behind our RV at the Adolfe Thomae CP. It was a fave even though the drive into Brownsville was about 40min. At night if you shone your flashlight into the water huge clusters of fish would jump - it looked surreal. (Arroyo City, TX, Dec 29/21)

Somebody had a political opinion. Their neighbour retaliated with a pro-Biden display.

High winds created a multi-sensory experience at the Sabal Palm Sanctuary. Palm fronds (some up to 10’ long) rustled and swayed to what appeared the breaking point as we walked the trails. When citrus farming became popular, this parcel of land was set aside to save the old growth sabals. (Brownsville, TX, Dec 31/21)

To enter the sanctuary, visitors pass through a break in The Wall guarded by 2 well-armed army personnel. While Rick took this shot, I touched the wall – surreal.

The Texas coast is part of a migratory path for several bird species. A string of national refuges along the coast provide a safe place to rest or nest. A 15mi loop in the refuge has been off limits to vehicles since 2013 leaving nature to reclaim it. Aside from seeing another cycling couple, the place was ours. (Brownsville, TX, Laguna Atacosa Wildlife Refuge, Jan 1/22)

So many birds (and antelope) made for frequent photography stops. It took us all day to ride the loop and found it such a great ride that we returned a couple of days later. Above: a long-billed curlew.

South Padre Island kept us occupied for several days and everything was within a bike ride from the KOA. We spent hours photographing the different types of birds who call this part of the island a resting and breeding spot during their annual migration. And then there was the opportunity to learn about the work done at the turtle center to rescue, rehabilitate and repatriate them with the sea. (South Padre Island, TX, Jan 4/22)

This ride spanned beach to field and mucky clay in-between.

Using our inflatable kayak wasn’t an option for much of the coast as sharp oyster shells and rocks were common. A company in Aransas Pass offered a kayak delivery service right to the Lighthouse Lakes Paddling Trail. (Aransas Pass, TX, Jan 13/22)

Birds abounded, even the plastic decoys that had us fooled until we practically ran into them. It was very funny trying to stealthily sneak up on them for ‘the best shot’ when we realized we’d been had.

Their rich pink feathers and unique spoon shaped bill make the spoon billed roseate my favourite.

Tonight’s view, camped beside the shoreline. (Goose Island SP, TX, Jan 14/22)

The pretty birds get all the attention and this one sings too (northern cardinal). A small alcove off a bike path attracted a number of birds. Seeing them depended on how patiently and quietly we could sit and wait. (Rockport-Fulton, TX, Jan 14/22)

Galveston was a favourite town full of 1800’s buildings and homes along with a long path beside the beach and all of it could be explored by bike – perfect for celebrating my 61st birthday. The Star Drug Store was one of the town’s original buildings and its outdoor patio became our go-to for breakfast. In another year it would be fun to soak up the history inside the retro café. (Galveston Island, TX, Jan 18-21/22)

A 5x5 block area was full of beautifully restored historic homes. For my birthday I chose to spend time in the neighbourhood and end up at a divine bakery for an indulgent selection of goodies. It was windy and raining but nothing like the unusual sub-zero temperatures back home this winter.

A 32km paved (return-trip) path ran the length of the beach and past Pleasure Pier. Like so many places, it was closed during this low season.

After so many windy days, it was a treat to wake to such calm in this private park.

The River Walk was the centerpiece of the city, and a person could spend days strolling the path that ran on both sides of the San Antonio River for several km. It felt like part Disneyland, part Venice and part tropics. Between the endless walking and biking options we loved this city! (San Antonio, TX, Jan 21-23/22)

Feeling a buzz from happy hour sangrias we watched the tour boats float by and the hub of restaurants come alive.

Beyond the pedestrian section of the River Walk we biked the Mission Trail which passed four 1700s era missions. With the trail set away from traffic the only sounds were birds chirping.

Brackenridge Park was home to interesting bridges, a couple of unusual waterfowl and a picture-perfect wheelhouse. Crested duck’s ‘pom pom’ makes them popular as decorative pets. I guess that’s better than being raised for roasting.

A pair of exotic Egyptian Geese. They usually live in Africa but were brought to the southern US where they’ve become an invasive waterfowl. There is talk of euthanizing them.

A docent’s lively history lesson of the Alamo brought this infamous spot and the men who fought here (including Davy Crockett) to life. The desperate fight and eventual loss for Texan independence from Mexico inspired the expression “Remember the Alamo” for American’s during the Mexican War.

Chili ristras adorned the homes in historic Mesilla, home to the courthouse where Billy the Kid was tried and sentenced to hang for murder. The ristras are said to bring good health and good luck, or sometimes the chilis are just being hung to dry for cooking. (Mesilla, NM, Jan 26/22).

Eons ago a large volcano erupted tossing a jumble of rocks onto otherwise miles of flat land. Erosion followed so that today they have a columnar appearance. Tonight, like innumerable other times, we feel grateful for our humble RV and the opportunity to camp in remote places. (City of Rocks SP, NM, Jan 26/22).

This owl, perched on one of our campsite rocks, watched us we returned from hiking the boulders.

A few miles south of Tombstone, the town of Bisbee add to the history of the area. Like so many others it started as an 1800’s mining town that grew during a rush, shrunk when the metal was depleted or no longer valuable and then restored by a group of concerned citizens to become a tourist destination and culturally rich place to live. With the town perched on and in between two hills there were 1,000 stairs scattered about to take you from the top of one hill to the bottom and then back up the other hill. (Bisbee, AZ, Jan 27/22)

A farmers market put ironing boards to good use.

Walking into town was like walking onto a permanent movie set, right down to the vehicles parked on the street and signs for active businesses - surreal. (Lowell, AZ, Jan 27/22)

When we visited Tombstone in 2017 the streets were lively and a group of cowboys/cowgirls rode into town to fill a saloon, giving the place an authentic feel. Covid has taken its toll – the streets were quiet and businesses near empty. But the re-enactment of the gunfight at OK Corral was just as entertaining. (Tombstone, AZ, Jan 28/22)

We returned to this little piece of paradise just south of Tucson. A rancher has leased the BLM land, sharing a portion with RVs. Fields of golden grass sway in the breeze for as far as the eye can see. The RV was parked near the rancher’s water tub so each morning the cows arrived for their fill of water and then moved on for their days grazing. One morning a herd of antelope showed up. (Cieneguita Campground-BLM, AZ, Jan 29/22)

Back in Tucson where my brand-new bike is racking up the kilometers. These beautiful, long paved trails will be missed. (Tucson, AZ, Jan 29/22)

Playful bat-themed metal sculptures dot the sides of today’s path. Mexican free-tail bats live half their year under one of the overpasses. Each weighs the same as about 2 nickels and eats its own weight in insects each night. Given that the colony is made up of 7,000 bats, that’s 110 lbs of insects each night!

Billed as the hottest city in America, Yuma boasts temperatures of 32C or higher 175 days a year. So after the prisoners built their own prison in the late 1800’s, they baked in their outdoor cells during the sweltering summer days and froze in the desert nights. Once the number of inmates outgrew the building’s available space they were moved elsewhere, and the facility was reinvented as a temporary school when the real high school burned down and later as a roof over the heads of the homeless during the Great Depression. (Yuma, AZ, Feb 6/22)

A familiar site… this time the muffler and catalytic converter had to be replaced. Unfortunately the mechanic didn’t normally work on RV’s so he undersized both. For the next three days it sounded like a rumbling hot rod until the muffler was replaced.

Hello California… many of the state’s beaches have a section for RVs to camp and for those tenacious enough to search for daily cancellations there can usually be a space found (at least in low season). So from day to day we’d hop from one site to another always with an eye to ones that backed up to the sand. (San Diego & Coronado, CA, Feb 8/22)

Intact sand dollars dotting the beach looked all the lovelier when the morning sun caught the golden glint of the mica in the local sand.

The military owned a significant portion of the beach for use as training grounds. Watching these young men and women running with backpacks that sounded like they were full of rocks was in stark comparison to the tourists lounging around at the beach drinking their expensive Coronado Hotel cocktails.

From our site we were able to cycle the length of Coronado, take the ferry over to San Diego and to ride from downtown out to Mission Bay.

Camped right next to the beach (Dockweiler SB) we were steps away from the iconic Marvin Braude (paved) bike path that runs 35 km along the beaches north and south of Santa Monica. It’s a cornucopia of scenes - roller bladers and skaters, Venice Beach, beachside homes with their westcoast patio vibes and surf boards hanging off bike racks. (Santa Monica, Feb 20/22)

Only the most avid were cycling in the high winds. Sand shovel machines were out the next day to clear the path.

This protected harbour is the ideal spot for a creche of baby sea otters. (Morro Bay, CA, Feb 25/22)

I’m including this picture because it will remind me of the perfect sunny, wandering-along-the-bay day topped off with simple butter baked oysters that must have been sprinkled with fairy dust because they tasted so good.

Five-thousand-pound, 16’ alpha elephant seal bulls rule this small bay. It takes all their effort to move a few inches but they’re highly motivated when another male tries to make a move on one of their females. After a pup’s mere 24 days of nursing, the female leaves them alone to learn to swim and find food. (San Simeon, CA, Feb 25/22)

The Monterey Bay Coastal Trail (30km return) was a favourite because the coast boasted a variety of colour and stops along the way. Just cycling beside the surf with its sounds and smells was such an immersive experience that we didn’t want it to end. (Monterey, Feb 26/22)

Beside bike paths, along beach high tide lines and elsewhere, ubiquitous succulents thrived providing an important foundation to mitigate sand erosion. Here, their pink, yellow and orange blossoms were on full display.

As with other trips, many of our stops for these 4 months were planned around exceptional bike paths and Sacramento’s Jedidiah Smith Bike Trail didn’t disappoint. Spanning 52km between Folsom and old Sacramento, there were a few worthwhile stops including Old Sacramento. It was a well-preserved part of the city complete with lots of good places to eat and window shop. Plus, we found the best costume shop (Angelina’s). The fairground made a perfect camping spot – on the bike path and the smaller, 30am service RVs were off on their own rather than crowded with the mammoth ones. (Sacramento, Feb 28/22)

Homelessness is at a crisis point for many cities and a few ‘camps’ abutted the Jedidiah path. One day we happened upon a fresh fire thought to have been set by a homeless person. Regardless of the city, large camps and their surrounding litter were regular sad reminders of America’s plight.

The rolling green hills and caribou between Sacramento and the California Redwoods made for a scenic and unexpected drive. Just under a decade ago, so much of the state’s land was just drought brown. A quick overnight at the national park was rewarded with a walk through the giant redwoods. (California Redwoods NP, Mar 3/22)