Venice-One of the safest cities in Europe, spans 100+ islands, 177 canals with 417 bridges crossing them, 350 gondolas plying the waterways and according to one source 450+ royal residences. We were enamored and as a result it was an arduous job deciding on which pictures we wanted to remember the city by-the selection is long. (May 11-17)
In recent times we’ve opted to rent apartments rather than hotels-they feel homier and give us options to control when and what we eat. The one in Venice was in a quiet residential square, set along a canal-a calm haven away from the throngs of (fellow) tourists.
Over a couple of bridges from the apartment was a traditional shopping area. Like many places in Italy the customer doesn’t pick their own produce, the shopkeeper (or boat keeper in this case) selects and bags the purchases. Now if I spoke Italian, I could give him a little guff (like the other ladies) for not choosing the best on offer. Down the way it was the fishmongers cart and deli for the ubiquitous pasta, prosciutto and cheese. Participating in the ritual felt like living a bit more "local".
The brick or stone buildings on the islands were constructed on limestone plates perched on closely spaced alder wood piles driven into the water, through layers of sand and mud to finally rest on a hard clay bottom. Centuries later most remain intact because alder is especially water resistant. Although that was good for Venice, vast tracts of land in nearby countries lay barren, stripped of all their alder trees.
Homes were designed to show their best faces canal-side since all traffic arrived by water prior to the addition of bridges. First floors were often used to unload goods, but as the city sinks between 1-2mm/year many of them have become uninhabitable. To mitigate this slow subsidence (there’s a new word:) there is a floatable gate model being tested this year to block high tides from reaching the inner canal systems.
Venetian masks have a long and colourful history: doctors wore a style with a long beak where they added perfume to protect against germs and the stench of death, for others the mask hid their identity allowing them to mingle with social classes outside their own or perhaps engage in nefarious activities. And today they are worn during the annual Carnival when the city bulges to 3 million people.
This narrow “street” complete with entrances to homes was not even the narrowest-that one spans a mere 53cm.
St Mark’s Square, the city’s main attraction. Anchored by the palace of the doge (duke) who once ruled the city-state and the basilica (828AD), the main square continues as the center of city life.
Attached to the Doge’s palace, the prison was made up of dank, windowless cells. It’s said that the only time a prisoner would see outside was when they crossed the bridge connecting the prison to their place of execution. As they looked out the small windows of the covered bridge they sighed at the beauty of their view, hence the name Bridge of Sighs.
Passing under the Bridge of Sighs was part of a popular gondola route. Maneuvering between ferries, taxis, tour boats, each other and what appeared to be a complete absence of rules of the road, the waterways were thick with gondoliers. Listening to the occasional one serenade their riders was a special treat.
Happy hour wouldn’t be right without a spritz, Venetian’s cocktail of choice. Part Prosecco, part sparkling water and finished off with Aperol (orange and slightly bitter) or Compari (red and very bitter). Reminiscent of a gin and tonic back home, they quickly became a daily libation.
In a pedestrian only city that extended for miles, it was a pleasure to walk about not having to dodge cars, motorcycles and bicycles. Even the garbage collection is done with a hand pulled cart (and an 8am general call out to the neighborhood followed by knocks on every residential door).
Today Venice is facing some major challenges including financial woes, erosion, excessive tourism, pollution and problems caused by oversized cruise ships sailing close to the banks of the historical city. And as if that isn’t enough there is the small matter of it slowly sinking. The sight of this monstrosity appearing in our view was a little startling-like a wall floated past completely changing the seascape of the Grand Canal.
To continue with this doomsday theme...for every one of the 50,000 residents of the historic center there is at least one tourist to match them. Of those, only half stay overnight to fully contribute to the economy while the remainder eat their breakfast and dinner on a cruise ship and arguably spend very little while on land. Last year UNESCO was considering adding Venice to its "In-Danger" list due to the effects this 'overtourism' is having on the canal system. Considering the cost/benefit of all these day trippers there is talk of limiting cruise ships.
A well sits in every campo (mini square). Now covered, the cisterns were once the fresh water source for those in each small neighborhood who could not afford to have one in their own home. They were dug a few feet deep, layered with sand to act as a filter and water was collected each rainfall as it poured into stone gratings that channeled into the well. Although the campi are now paved in brick or stone, they used to be communal agricultural areas supplying the necessary produce. The grass around the well above is the only sign we saw of their former use.
Campo di Santo Giovani) was an ideal location-with a restaurant just out of the frame we sipped vino while intermittently pressing the camera's remote control throughout the blue hour.
Detailed wrought iron lamps either on posts or hung from the sides of buildings added to the nights and days historical ambiance.
The 1900s took the fun out of the bridges, adding railings to all but a very few. Perhaps understanding how much sewage was seeping into the canals made the prospect of falling in less desirable.
Ancient doorknobs most often sat in the center of a door and their intricacy was such that they deserved the term 'door furniture'.
While the well heeled cruised around the canals in these beautiful taxis James Bond style, we and the rest of the unwashed masses crammed onto the frequent ferries.
Not a prime location, but we seized the opportunity when someone offered to take our picture.
Venice has become widely known for its element of elegant decay.
Eight to ten thousand gondolas were once a means of transport. Today, gondoliers must pass comprehensive exams covering their knowledge of history, languages, and how to handle the gondola followed by 400 hours of on the water practice to qualify for one of the ~400 licenses available.
The demarcation of properties on the small Venetian island of Burano used to be done by brightly painting the homes. The government dictates what colours can be used for each home based on the history of the lot it sits on.
Burano’s 17th-century bell tower shows the importance of a reliable foundation:)
There’s also a legend that when fishing was the town’s main industry, the colorful abodes were easier to spot from out at sea. Now, at an astounding ratio of 600 tourists for each resident, the town’s rainbow of colour has taken on a whole new significance.
As the birthplace of the Renaissance, seeing Florence and its works of art was the impetus for visiting Italy. And Michelangelo’s statue of David was at the top of the list. Sitting on one of the surrounding benches and spending time admiring the scale and perfection of the piece makes you misty eyed. The thought is that Michelangelo’s statue of David shows him before he has defeated Goliath. The underdog David holds the sling in his left hand and in his right, the rock that he slung at Goliath (landing the fatal blow squarely in the giant’s forehead). Fun fact: David stands 17’ tall. (Florence, May 6-10)
Prepubescent, almost androgynous looking and arguably sexual, with Goliath's helmet feather tickling his inner thigh (below), Donatello’s younger version of David made a different statement. Although he stays true to the legend with the giant's severed head underfoot.
The monolithic Florence Cathedral complex completely dominated the Piazza del Duomo. Among other buildings, it contained the Bell Tower and the dome topped Florence Cathedral (the dome being such an impressive engineering marvel, for the 1400s, that it is graced with its architect’s name-Cupola del Brunelleschi).
How to erect the Cupola del Brunelleschi without the use of temporary supports puzzled the leading architects & engineers of the day. The ahah moment came when of them one cracked off the small end of an egg, turned it upside down, and noted how even with its odd shape it supported itself. Climbing the 463-step corkscrew staircase to get to the top of the dome allowed us to appreciate the magnitude of their challenge even more (and made us a little dizzy). The ant-sized people at the top of the dome provide some scale to its size.
Inside the cupola, paintings played out scenes from The Last Judgement, from the highest echelons of the church along the top row to the lowest row detailing the seven deadly sins of pride, greed, lust, envy, gluttony, wrath and sloth. It would take a more nuanced eye than ours to figure out which of the sins was being illustrated in the shot above, but either way the imagery is macabre at best. Fun fact: the cupola covers 3,600m².
After a carb loaded meal and with warmed up quads it was back to climb another 400+ steps, this time to the top of the Bell Tower.
Some pieces of art that once adorned the interior and exterior of the Florence Cathedral complex are now stored in the Dome Museum. Several reliefs depicted the work and learning valued by the society. Of course, wine making in Italy was an important contribution, but what's with the staff in quality control.
The parking skills of the motorcyclists outperformed those of the car drivers. We saw drivers double park and go in to a restaurant for a meal where only the eventual shouts from the sandwiched in driver would alert the culprit that it was time to move.
It’s a mystery how you would holster this nine barreled pistol but apparently it was in use in the mid-1600s. No information about the weapon could be found on the internet except accusations of people photoshopping.
Taking some time away from the museums, we visited Boboli Gardens, an 11 acre expanse of gardens dotted with statues - all part of a palace owned by the Medici family.
On condition that it never leave Florence “the world's greatest collection of Italian Renaissance art”, was bequeathed to the city by the Medici family and housed in the Uffizi Museum. That seems rather fitting as the wealthy patrons supported at times the likes of Leonardo di Vinci, Botticelli and Michelangelo with the latter living with the family for 5 years. Above: Sandro Botticelli is noted for painting beautiful subjects and The Birth of Venus is one of his most famous pieces.
The town hall of the city, called the Old Palace, has been the central point of government for centuries. While we were there a trio of high school students approached us offering a tour of the site. We ended up learning equally about their school system. Offering the tour was part of their ongoing school program to practice English and their knowledge of history. Students spend a total of 5 years in secondary school-the first 2 years for general studies and then at approximately 13 years old they decide what they want to do with the rest of their lives. Upon transferring to the appropriate school, they focus on their area of interest: Classics (history, languages, philosophy, etc.), Sciences (physics, chemistry, etc.), Fine Arts (drawing, sculpting, painting) and finally Technical (specific vocations).
Next door to the Old Palace was the forum Loggia dei Lanzi where centuries ago leaders addressed the citizens of Florence. As befitting a place of civic pride, the leaders were surrounded by statues of familiar scenes from Greek and Roman mythology. The Florentines added their own twist so that the familiar myths became allegories honoring their city’s struggles with other parts of Italy. Violence reigned whether it be severing of heads, arrows through the heart, rape, abduction or clubbing.
As in times gone by, shops cling to the sides of the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) garnering them the ideal location for pedestrian traffic. But what used to be butcheries has been replaced with gleaming jewelry shops so small that surely a handful of people inside them would cause the timber supports to creak.
The medieval stone-built Ponte Vecchio, lit up at night, made it an ideal location worthy of lugging around the tripod for some blue hour shots.
Driving for a week through the small historic towns and back-roads of Tuscany was beautiful with its endless vistas. While others hopped from vineyard to vineyard filling their cars with cases of wine, we filled our camera chip with pictures. (Tuscany, Apr 30-May 6)
The vineyards are also popular with wild boars who are fond of eating the grapes. Perhaps that is what gives their meat such flavor - wild boar stews and pasta sauces are a Tuscan specialty. The animals are so abundant in the area that there has been talk of a culling in addition to the annual hunting season.
The tall slim cypress trees, sometimes referred to as Tuscan Cypress for their prevalence in the region, gave driveways to hilltop abodes a regal look. This particularly scenic 20mi stretch of road between Arbia and Asciano was a big draw for shutterbugs.
The Abbey of San Gaglano - unique in that sometime in the last millennium it’s roof collapsed leaving its remainder perfectly intact.
(San Gaglano)
Remembrance Day, with its emblematic poppy, has always been a revered day. But because the delicate flower isn’t common at home, its significance was more intellectual than visceral. After seeing them grow wild for weeks now, it’s easy to connect them with Flanders fields and associate their deep red with the blood that was shed by so many for our freedom.
The charms and fertile lands of Tuscany have a long history with medieval castles or fortified small towns perched on many a hilltop. Although they changed hands several times over the centuries they continue to be lived in by owners (or rented out to tourists) while its common now for castles in other parts of Europe to languish vacant. (Banfi Castle)
Off the beaten path nature was creeping in. (Vagliagli)
The names of shops have changed and baskets of petunias added, but the structure’s facades around the main square have changed little since this renaissance era town was built in the mid-1400s. (Pienza)
Ornate and often whimsical iron rings (ferri), to tie horses up to the buildings, remained in place every few feet.
Predating the town of Pienza was the area’s sheep's milk cheese (pecorino) production. The sheep that eat wild herbs produce a strong milk for the cheese, while the grain eaters are responsible for the milder variety. Not sure what the above would taste like but being aged under hay (and it seems whatever was stuck to it) could only be an acquired taste.
For centuries Florence, allied with the papacy, and Siena, with ties to Germany, fought over the 75km of Tuscan land between them. And this castle, strategically situated mid-point and exceptionally heavily fortified was a magnet for both sides. After ping-ponging back and forth between the rivals for centuries, finally in the mid-1800s all settled down and the founding Ricasoli family continues to live here and produce its wines in this, the oldest winery in Italy. (Brolio Castle)
Ringing the castle "doorbell". Once inside we were allowed to walk the full perimeter of the ramparts. We were surprised at how wide they were, ranging from about 6 feet wide to a full courtyard with a maze garden.
World famous art and sites, plazas adorned with fountains and statues every few blocks, outdoor cafes, shopping and a great metro system - Rome was an easy city to love. (Rome, Apr 23-28)
While the modern city swirled around it’s periphery the Colosseum made a surreal landmark. Its sheer enormity required a panorama shot. In AD 80, it was a tumultuous time and the Colosseum was built as a place to host free shows in hopes of currying favor with the Roman citizens.
From the warren of rooms below the sand covered arena (now exposed except for the small white deck in the background of the pic) a pulley system supported 80 lifts moving sets, men and beasts above and below the arena floor. It must have been an almost magical spectacle for the crowd.
With an audience of up to 80,000, collosium shows lasted the full day: first there was the wild game hunt replete with jungle foliage to create a realistic setting. Lunch was enjoyed while watching half-starved beasts, tied together, fight to the end. Never a fair match, the cobbling made it easier for the predator to devour the prey. Wrapping up the days entertainment, the gladiators entered the arena. Because they were an expensive commodity a fight to the death was not always a given. Fun fact: if there had been any gladiator blood shed, it would be sponged up and sold as a remedy for epilepsy. Once again, I am thankful for modern medicine.
Pontifical Swiss Guard at one of the entrances to the walled Vatican City. Fun facts: you can apply for the job if you are a Swiss citizen, single, 5'8" or taller, 19-30 yrs old, have a high school or above education and of course are Roman Catholic. Only when they are standing with their hands clasped are you allowed to ask them questions.
Within the 54 galleries that make up the Vatican Museums, we found the map gallery the most jaw dropping. Various versions of maps of Italy lined the corridor, topped by a gleaming gold ceiling.
Rick rose with the sun to avoid the crowds so that he could see inside St. Peter’s Basilica and climb the 551 steps up to its cupola. If he’d arrived any later, the lineup would have been hours long.
Trevi Fountain - 240 years old and one of the most famous in the world. With the throngs tossing a coin over their right shoulder, the daily haul of about 3,000 euros is used to subsidize a supermarket for the city’s needy.
Rome and crowds are synonymous. The Spanish Steps are decorated with azaleas for a brief time during the Spring. After people posed for pictures within the flowers they headed below to Piazza Spagna, one of the city’s iconic and fashionable squares, surrounded by luxury brand stores.
Over the past 2,000 years the Sant 'Angelo castle has served as everything from a mausoleum to a prison. During its period as a fortress for the pope, it was connected to St Peter's Basillica via a fortified corridor over a kilometer long. Now it joins the ranks as another museum.
Sipping a cappuccino and listening to a cello player outside the Pantheon was a special moment. The Pantheon has the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome and in its center is a 9m circle open to the sky connecting the gods to the temple. All sorts of engineering and fun facts, for those so inclined, to be found here http://romeonsegway.com/10-facts-about-the-pantheon/
Hmmmm, are Italians trying a little too 'hard' to maintain their Italian stallion moniker :)
The high-speed train hurtling along at up to 300km/hour made the 1 hr trip from Naples to Rome the day’s high point for Rick-he insisted the speed pic be included-such a guy (& Allana) thing :) (Apr 24)
Not to be outdone by Versailles in France, a more grandiose palace (Reggia di Caserta) was built here in the mid-1700s. Even today, it is the largest royal residence in the world (measured by volume). Fun facts: 1200 rooms, 1470 windows, 34 staircases. Above: the staircase to the royal apartments and a series of waiting rooms for those fortunate enough to have an audience with the king.
(Caserta, Apr 23)
Outside the palace, bicycles were available for rent to ride beside the 3km of fountains.
Greek colonizers established themselves here in the 6th century BC and left behind three of the world’s best-preserved ancient Greek temples. Oddly, the site attracts relatively few visitors and this along with the freedom to explore the entire settlement makes it especially easy to understand how life was lived so long ago. (Paestum, Apr 22)
Nighttime is when the temple to Hera, goddess of fertility, comes alive.
Rumour has it that couples trying to conceive, hop the site fence, enter the shrine and make love under the stars.
According to Forbes magazine the best buffalo mozzarella, a pizza staple, comes from Italy. And this organic farm is one of the country’s most prestigious. Among other stress relieving perks, the water buffalo listen to jazz and classical music and only get milked when they chose to enter the milking barn. Above: after finishing her turn, this cow decided to eschew the exit door for a scratch from Rick. (Paestum, Apr 22)
So scenic, yet adrenaline inducing... driving the serpentine Amalfi Coast, at times cantilevered over the rock face, was something out of a James Bond movie. With nowhere to pull over and Rick’s eyes firmly on the single lane that served as two, I tried to capture the beauty and chaos of the coastline. (Positano to Amalfi, Apr 21)
While we and the bus tried to share the road with the white line as the "sidewalk", pedestrians were at the bottom of the food chain.
The town of Amalfi completed the Amalfi Coast drive. After a walk about the town, an expensive lunch and a "Made in Italy" tote bag purchase, we left the coast with our wallets a little thinner.
A single one-way road snaked its way down the mountainside through the Amalfi Coast's most "photogenic and expensive town". And the rest was stairs. You burned your dinner calories just walking to the restaurant. (Positano, Apr 19-21)
Terraced land supports groves of lemon trees, with the fruit of many destined for Limoncello-the regions specilaty. With a 30% alcohol content, if sipped cold as a finishing touch to a meal, it’s supposed to aid digestion. Although still a strong contributor to the economy many farmers are abandoning the labour intensive work leaving the terraces to crumble and the land more susceptible to landslides. Italy experiences 70% of all the landslides in Europe.
At night, the restaurant candles were lit, aperitifs were sipped and the place oozed romance.
Defensive ramparts lining the Amalfi Coast served as reminders of more fractious times. When sentries spotted danger they would light fires to warn the townspeople to seek shelter.
In its heyday Pompeii had a population of 11,000 and was peppered with villas owned by the holiday set. When Mount Vesuvius erupted the people were quickly killed by volcanic heated gases and then buried under meters of ash. Almost 2,000 years later a third of the city remains unexcavated, and will stay that way for the foreseeable future as the excavated structures continue to deteriorate under the pressure of tourism and the effects of Mother Nature. (Pompeii, Apr 18)
Raised rocks acted as bridges allowing pedestrians to avoid rain water and sewage.
Ruts were cut into the roads to serve as tracks for the chariots.
In the historic center of gritty Naples, pedestrians, motorcycles and cars jockeyed for space, while laundry reigned above. (Naples, Apr 15-17)
After art courses at home, Italy made the bucket list with the goal of seeing the best the ages offered. Being neophytes, we didn’t realize that when an artist was commissioned for a piece, he or she painted variations so that the buyer could select one to their liking. In a game of ‘what doesn’t look like the other’, it’s interesting to pick out the subtle differences between the above two. (Capodimonte Museum, Naples)
Armor to men was like jewelry to women, denoting the owners taste and social status and showcasing the artisans skills.
Taking a break from highbrow art, we checked out the Museum of Torture. Interestingly the write up for the head crusher notes that although it was developed in the Middle Ages it “enjoys good use today in some parts of the world”. (Naples, Apr 15)